Starting a climbing training program can feel a bit overwhelming at first, but success can be found when breaking it down into manageable steps.
This is solved by what we consider the holy trinity of climbing training: building a roadmap, incorporating progressive overload, and allowing for recovery. Let's start with the foundation through self assessments.
Assessments serve as your starting point, helping you understand where you currently stand in terms of strengths, weaknesses, and overall performance. Think of it as finding point A on your climbing journey map. Without knowing where you are, it's challenging to plot a course forward.
Starting off keep it simple. Start with four or five meaningful tests that align with your climbing goals and style. A two-step process can guide your test selection. Gather feedback from peers to identify your strengths and weaknesses. Secondly set performance goals and list the specific demands needed to achieve them.
Once you've chosen your tests, it's time to gauge your performance objectively. While comparing scores with friends can provide a general idea, seeking professional feedback or utilizing remote assessments can offer a more detailed analysis.
For climbers unsure of which tests to include, consider four fundamental ones. A finger strength test using a hangboard or no-hang tool, an endurance test with a repeater protocol, a pulling strength test focusing on a two-rep max, and a lower body flexibility test.
The goal of assessments isn't just to know where you stand but to inform your training priorities and set realistic goals. Use the results to identify areas for improvement and strengths to leverage in your training.