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Finger strength to climbing grades?

5 minutes read

Climbing Grade Calculator

This algorithm has been developed from multiple self reported data sources while using a variety of standardized training edges found in the mass market.

The process:

Perform one arm max rep testing on a standard 20mm edge. The edge should be a standard testing edge such as a fingerboard or no hang device.

20mm hangboard edge

Once you complete the testing use that weight either body weight minus if pulley assisted or including extra weight if adding for fingerboards or final result of a no hang test (which we prefer) and enter the value below.

This value will/can correlate (loosely) to a climbing grade. Use this to benchmark your finger strength against correlated grades to determine if you are above or below average.

What this means:

In short, nothing. As a guiding principle don't look too deep into this as climbing is more than just finger strength on a flat static edge. THIS does not invalidate your abilities.

There are a lot of factors that go into grip strength as well as climbing grades. Use this to benchmark or a tool to measure yourself against yourself and look for areas of improvement.

If the results are not favorable, do not take offense. This is a great opportunity to take your climbing to the next level by considering improving finger strength. Alternatively, if your finger strength results show a much higher grade than you've climbed. This is an additional opportunity to put focus on other parts of your climbing training.

Observations:

Personally have used multiple fingerboards at home and also at different gyms. I have come across new wooden boards and no hangs tools do feel very hard to grip until they are used consistently for about a year.

Alternatively, old fingerboards or edges at a popular climbing gyms will have a patina which is semi (sometimes very) grippy on the skin due to all the sweat and chalk.

Not all tools are created equal. For instance the Beastmaker center edge is slightly incut with a tight radius, while the Lattice edge is flat and has a generous radius. Quite the difference there.

Take this into consideration when using different tools to test.